12 March 2012

My idea of Paradise

The concept of Heaven or Paradise is different for all of us. If you are a religious soul, Heaven is mostly a place in your mind. An utopic dream of eternity and happiness. For others, for the more practical minded, Heaven is a place on Earth (thanks Belinda!). I belong to this second group. Not that I don't fancy the idea of life after death. It's quite appealing, actually. After a lifetime of work and (almost) no fun in the lower level of the atmosphere, who isn't teased by the idea of enjoying the eternity in a penthouse on the highest condo of the block?
Well, regardless of that post-mortem prize we all are supposed to get, I think we should make an effort to find it here. In our lifetime.
It can also be a place within us (probably it always is), like several oriental philosophies praise for centuries. But for the vast majority of us, Heaven is, normally, a physical place and a time.
Struggling with an attempt for a concrete definition (we humans are so analytical), I would say that, to me, Paradise is a place in this good old Earth where I would love to spend my last days. And although I'm in love for the mountains since my childhood and run to them in every free weekend, I couldn't consider the idea, as a senior citizen (if I last that long), to spend among the highest peaks my last years of life. No Sir. Too cold. And I guess by that time, we all, more or less, suffer a little bit from rheumatism. Too isolated, also. So that means no roads, no cinemas, no malls (well, that's hardly an inconvenience). But, above all, no people. And how many of us want to die alone? So the mountains have their role. Certainly. When we climb them we feel closer to something divine. Place us closer to that biblical idea of Heaven. And, for that matter, the actual mountain high is irrelevant. As long as we are above the clouds. Also, the light air makes us think smart things (or is it oxygen deprivation?).
However, after all this enlightenment, it's always good to return to the valleys, to the actual world of mankind where we belong.
Therefore mountains are far from being my idea of Heaven. To me, they are just therapeutic. It's a bit like Jesus’ forty days sojourn in the Judean desert. He went there because He needed answers. Not because it was a particularly interesting place to visit.
So, my paradise on Earth is at a quite lower altitude. Near sea level, to be precise. It has to have tepid and peaceful salt waters, a coral reef at the distance, nice people, pure white sands and coconut trees leaning over our heads. Sharks are dispensable.
I can honestly feel that I've found this place one year ago. More than a place, it's a region: all the coastal area of the Pernambuco state, from the city of Recife to the border of Alagoas. Along a stripe of a few hundred kilometres, we can see some of the most wonderful beaches of Brasil. But, to me, Tamandaré beats them all. Distant about one hundred kilometres from the state capital, Tamandaré is a peaceful small town of 20.000 persons that, for the time being, manages to be free from the massified tourism that invaded the nearby Porto de Galinhas. This calm fishing village is, for the time being, my idea of paradise.
Not so well known to the foreign tourists, Tamandaré is for decades one of the most important resorts in Brasil for it's internal tourism. The proximity of Porto de Galinhas, with it's massive international touristic offer, allowed this gem to pass the years almost untouched. Nevertheless, expensive holiday mansions located by the seaside, belonging either to wealthier Brazilian or foreign citizens, are becoming common. How can we blame them? 
The seaside avenue of Tamandaré. Here you will find plenty of snack-bars (the "quiosques) by the beach where you can eat some nice Brazilian meals, while listening some live folk music. Strangely, the place, although touristic, is never too crowded.You will always find tourists walking around, even in the low season when they are in shorter numbers. However, You will always have the sense that this friendly town is only for you.
The Tamandaré fortress (Forte de Santo Inácio de Tamandaré) is a Vauban-style fortress rebuilt in the XIX century over the previous Portuguese fortress from the XVII century. The monument, with elegant architecture, is a mandatory visit in the village. Sadly it's interior is in a state of ruin. The Tamandaré lighthouse, seen in the picture, is erected within the fortress perimeter.
No enemies to face anymore.
The guns at Tamandaré fortress face the sea and the ancient stories of the Portuguese-Dutch wars.
Regardless of becoming a touristic place, Tamandaré remains a fishing village. Aside from the normal power boats, this small industry still relies on the typical Pernambuco raft for its purposes. Steered with an oar, they also have a movable fin keel secured in either port or starboard. The propulsion is normally achieved with a Latin sail and also, sometimes, with a small outboard engine.
Evening light in Tamandaré beach.
In the Winter season, with the whole beach for himself, a biker faces the evening sun in Tamandaré beach.
The Pousada Beira-Mar, in Tamandaré.
The Pousada Beira-Mar is one of the many friendly and family-owned hostels that already exists in Tamandaré. Dedicated to a more easy-going and peace-driven kind of tourism (if you want a five star resort, you can go to the nearby Porto de Galinhas), these small hostels have, nevertheless, excellent conditions, sometimes even with wireless Internet. So, if you hate to hear noise, dealing with drunken guests and enjoy the idea of sharing "your" home away from home with a maximum of fifteen people, then you came to the right place.
It seems that in Brazil Carnival never really ends. Carnival confetti hanging in a restaurant of Tamandaré.

Coconuts in the Tamandaré street market.
The fabulous Praia dos Carneiros, 7 kilometres North of Tamandaré. Believe me, the five mile walk, along the coast, between Tamandaré and Carneiros is, probably, one of the best beach walks that you can make in this God's Earth. Just take a bottle of fresh water, a hat, a t-shirt and a pair of "Havaianas" with you.

10 March 2012

Early morning in Caniçal

Today Caniçal was open for business after 0600 in the morning. First with the berthing manoeuvre of the cement carrier Naftocement III on the North terminal and afterwards with the mooring operations on CLCM of the M/T Emmy Schulte.
Enjoy.
Naftocement III, the true "dragster" of the seas, alongside in Caniçal.
Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT3.
Resizing work with Adobe Photoshop CS3.

Pilot Card:
Ships name: Naftocement III
IMO number: 7109879 (710... means she's a very old lady!)
Type: Cement carrier
LOA: 76.90 mts
Beam: 12.20 mts
DWT: 2211.9 t
Max draft on manoeuvre: 5.20 mts
Propulsion: Single engine - single fixed propeller - 2000 HP
Pitch: Left-handed
Rudder: 1 - Conventional
Bow thruster: I wish

The Motor/Tanker Emmy Schulte finishing mooring operations on a peaceful March morning at the CLCM terminal, in the village of Caniçal.
Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT3.
Resizing work with Adobe Photoshop CS3.

Pilot Card:
Ships name: Emmy Schulte
IMO number: 9394519
Type: Tanker
LOA: 144 mts
Beam: 23 mts
DWT: 16669 t
Max draft on manoeuvre:
Propulsion: Single engine - single fixed propeller - 3996 Kw
Pitch: Right-handed
Rudder: 1 - Conventional - Balanced
Bow thruster: 750 Kw

08 March 2012

Late afternoon light over rocky ridge

Sometimes it pays to stay in the mountains a little bit longer. We never know what the sunset light will bring us. Most of the times you will get nothing. But on a few enchanted moments, nature graces us with her exquisite kaleidoscope. After the shoot I had to run down the hill, 'cause the park gate, down in the valley, was closing for night time.
Date: 04-12-2009, 1732 GMT
Nikon D40X
Nikkor AF-S 55-200mm f4-5.6 G ED kit lens
Exposure: f8-1/4000s at #200mm, ISO 100
Hand held
Post-processing (cropping, sharpening and slight increase in saturation) in Adobe Photoshop CS3 

07 March 2012

M/T Madeiro in Caniçal

The M/T Madeiro was among us during these past couple of days, discharging in the CLCM terminal the fuels we so much need. While waiting in the bridge for the paperwork to be finished, I chilled out reading the May 2011 issue of the Mare World, the magazine of the Mare Maritime, shipowner of  M/T Madeiro. "Energy Alternative Sources" was the article that caught my eye. And it is somewhat strangely ironic that a company devoted to the transportation of fossil fuels is already looking in the future. To the disappearing of the core business of an entire global industry. Nothing against it. By anticipating those days, they will be better prepared to face the music when things change. And they will. It's no longer a matter of "if", but "when".
The article itself, written simple and concise, was enlightening to me. Particularly because I'm a complete ignorant in energy matters.
However, as serious as the subject is, I couldn't help laughing while seeing this model of a Chevrolet for the year 2050.
Could this be our common destination?
Mare World magazine - May 2011
Partial scan of the page 18
Article "Energy Alternative Sources"
Canon Canoscan N676U flat scanner

06 March 2012

M/T Gas Renovatio moored at the offshore terminal of CLCM

A quiet and peaceful February morning was what I've found for the mooring operations of the M/T Gas Renovatio at the terminal of CLCM, located in the fishing village of Caniçal. Although small in size, this vessel stands as a good example of the manoeuvre capabilities that all vessels should have to call these space-restricted buoyage systems. Aside from a quick-reacting main engine and a fair bow thruster power, the vessel is equipped with fast mooring winches and drum ropes, making, therefore, the mooring and unmooring operations faster and secure.
Pilot Card:
Ships name: Gas Renovatio
IMO number: 9161077
Type: LPG tanker
LOA: 99 mts
Beam: 16.70 mts
DWT: 3292.3 t
Max draft on manoeuvre: 5.25 mts
Propulsion: Single engine - single fixed propeller - 2438.4 Kw
Pitch: Right-handed
Rudder: 1 - Semi-balanced
Bow thruster: Yes - 240 Kw

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT3.
Resize work and cropping with Adobe Photoshop CS3

05 March 2012

Penha d'Águia and Faial at dusk

A first attempt at night time with my new Panasonic Lumix GH2. I took the picture from the Faial fort pointing the camera to the rock formation of Penha d'Águia. The picture was already taken at night time (about 45 minutes after sunset) hence the burnt highlights in the villages of Águia de Baixo and Faial. I liked the colour of the sky, tho.
Panasonic Lumix GH2
Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42 Asph Mega OIS kit lens
Manfrotto 190XDB tripod with Manfrotto 490 RC4 Ball Head
Exposure: 50 secs (with timer) f5.0 at ISO 160
Adjustments for saturation, noise reduction and sharpening in Adobe Photoshop CS3

17 February 2012

From Boca da Encumeada to Curral Jangão

A few days ago, with a full morning to spare, I decided to hike for the first time this small trail. Located at the top North end of the Ribeira Brava valley, this easy path connects Boca da Encumeada to Curral Jangão by a well marked and straight forward track. Regardless of the fact that the trail itself is far from being dangerous or even strenuous, the magic of it is quite present from the beginning. Stopping the car in a small parking area on the right side of the main road, a couple hundred meters before arriving to the Encumeada pass, you'll soon see the sign pointing your destination: the hanging valley of Curral Jangão. The first 500 or so meters are in a well marked forest road, accessible only for all-terrain vehicles. But as soon as you arrive near the large pipe conduct that leads the water from the Levada do Norte, high above, to the Power Plant of Serra de Água located in the valley below, the road ends and you make a detour to the right. You descend a few stony steps, pass under the conduct, and the mountain trail is in front of your eyes.

Map source: Instituto Geográfico do Exército, Chart nº5 (Ilha da Madeira - Curral das Freiras) Scale: 1/25.000

The first kilometre is, actually, quite boring. We walk in a forest of eucalyptus; not the most endemic flora if you know what I mean. However, as soon as we reach open ground things change and we are once again surrounded by the magnificent Madeira mountain landscape.

When we reach open ground, on the "grass floor", the trail opens to the beautiful mountain landscape that characterizes Madeira.

At this point we are already surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the island. Curral Jangão is, itself, a natural amphitheatre. The birth place of Ribeiro do Poço and a perfect and cosy hanging valley, Curral Jangão, at a high of roughly 850 meters, is surrounded by peaks that rise to almost 1600 meters high. So, a dramatic landscape and orography is something that we can expect when arriving there.

Curral Jangão, with its dramatic orography, seen from afar.

After the "grass floor", the path becomes more intimate and we find ourselves surrounded by native forest and vegetation. Sometimes we cross a few "green tunnels", where vegetation completely embraces the trail, and on others we cross some small streams with improvised wooden bridges.

Sometimes, small streams are crossed with wooden bridges...

...other times we cross them with stone ones, like this one, already in the Curral.

One hour, since departure, is more or less the time to reach Curral Jangão. Pacing ourselves, stopping a few times to take some pictures, and the full hike should take us about three hours from Boca da Encumeada and back. For the ones of us that love stronger emotions the path continues, from Curral Jangão, and at an additional 10 kilometres, to Boca da Corrida, passing close to Pico Grande. In fact, Curral Jangão is located in the old path that used to connect Boca da Corrida to Encumeada and also Serra de Água. So it comes as no surprise that we find, in the middle of nowhere, the perfect architecture of the stone bridge above.
The trails that we use nowadays for fun, were, for centuries, the only way possible for the Madeira inhabitants to travel within it.
Upon arrival to Curral Jangão, I meditated for awhile about that. Here, in this peaceful and sheltered high valley, while eating a few chestnuts that I've picked up from the trees, I cannot feel less than amazed for the centuries of efforts taken to vanquish Madeira's violent orography. Without anything more than manual tools and muscle power, these people built a net of water channels (the "levadas"), hundreds of kilometres long, to bring water from the moistly North coast to the sunnier and agricultural-friendly fields on the South. For this hydraulic effort, they vanquished the natural barriers with tunnels and suspended aqueducts, many of them in vertiginous places.
Then the connection between the several human settlements in the island. The net of trails (or "veredas" like they call them in Portuguese) is, certainly, older than the "levadas". But not less difficult to achieve, as we can see in so many parts of the island. Not all of them are so easy to build like this one where I'm standing. There are so many others where nature was uncooperative. Even today, after a more rough Winter, we still face difficulties in returning to the mountain paths. A rock fall here, a mud slide there and some paths become impractical for months. And today we have mechanical tools. How it would be like, in the fifteen century? I think about those ancient construction workers. If their spirits are somewhere, in a nice balcony with a view to their works of art, they must be glad to see their legacy still being used by the new generations.
I know I would.
And with this comforting thought on my mind I return home.

Terraced agricultural fields on the South face of Pico da Encumeada, Curral Jangão.