Fanal - In the heart of the Laurissilva forest

I've read somewhere that the early Madeira discoverers found an island covered in a dense, enchanted and pristine subtropical forest. Quite similar to the one existing in the continental Europe, before the last glaciation age, some 20000 years ago, wiped it out of the map. The forest that we, nowadays, know by the name of "Laurissilva". By our present standards, this was, probably, a natural paradise.

But... being us what we are... things wouldn't last too long. As soon as the first settlers arrived on the island they started the deforestation of the South coast with the objective of cleaning the ground for agricultural purposes. However, doing it with saw and axe was to much of a trouble, so they opted instead for the use of matches. And they torched the island.

According to the historians, the fires were so big and vast that several years later the island was still burning and, as a consequence, a large part of her natural heritage was lost forever.

Thankfully, most of that nonsense intervention was made along the South coast, where the climate was gentler and the land was attractive for farming. The vast majority of the North coast, however, with its harsh weather and abrupt orography, was spared from a similar fate.

So, presently, the surviving ancient Laurissilva forest in Madeira occupies an area that goes from Santana to Porto Moniz, passing thru the high peaks of the Central Massif and Paúl da Serra until the large valleys of Ribeira do Seixal and Ribeira da Janela. Amidst these two, hanging at the Northwest edge of the plateau formation called Paúl da Serra, lies the forest park known as "Fanal". My brother's visit to Madeira was the catalyst I needed to explore that remote corner of the island. Suspended between land and sea and between past and present, the Fanal is a time travel within your spirit and in your senses. And surprised both of us.

It truly is the heart of the Laurissilva forest.

The entrance to the Fanal park, as seen from the wooden stairway leading to the forest house.

Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.

Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

Rock formation on the NW part of the park and facing the Ribeira Funda valley.

Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.

Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

Under the canopy of an ancient tree, aiming the lens to the distant horizon.

Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.

Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

The secular and primeval vegetation of Fanal gives the park a otherworldly atmosphere.

Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.

Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

Besides birds and bugs, the sole permanent occupants of the place are cool cows.

Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.

Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

My brother Rui approaching a vertiginous cliff, from where we had a magnificent vista over the Ribeira Funda valley.

Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.

Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

The grassy Fanal plateau, from a nearby hill. On the top of the picture you can see a artificial pond, used for livestock watering.
Picture made with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and Panasonic Lumix G Vario 1:3.5-5.6/14-42mm Asph. lens.
Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop CS3.

MS Riviera

A new construction, about one year old, the M/S Riviera was our visit today, here in Funchal. Coming from Motril, Spain, and bounding for La Palma. Today's call was her first among us.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT3.


Pilot Card:
Ships name: M/V Riviera
IMO number: 9438078
Type: Cruise ship
LOA: 239.30 mts
Beam: 32.20 mts
Summer displacement: 35902.2 t
Max draft on manoeuvre: 7.30 mts
Propulsion: Diesel-electric, two variable pitch propellers, 24 MW total propulsion power
Pitch: N/A
Rudder: 2, Independent Semi-Spade
Bow thruster: 2 (total power: 4400 KW)
Stern thruster: 1 (total power: 1900KW)

Men at work

During my life at sea, it was always with sheer pleasure and relief that I ended the vessel's commercial operations and, casting off, proceeded to the high sea and to the next port of call. Most of the times, while alongside, we don't have time for anything. The cargo operations are always very demanding, and require the crew's utmost attention. And if we are not in commercial operations, there's always a mobile phone ringing, an agent arriving, a report to be made, a maritime authority officer to deal with.

So, most of the times, in the Merchant Marine, the only chance we have to relax and fully dedicate ourselves to our vessel is when we are traveling between ports.

During those few days (or, sometimes, weeks), we cut the umbilical cord with land and, in total autonomy, immerse ourselves on the daily routines of the ship's operation and maintenance. Those days are the best to fully appreciate our careers at sea and the longer the voyage the better.

During those days spent in oceanic traverses, and as long as the weather permits, we dedicate ourselves to painting jobs, to grease the mechanical and hydraulic systems, to update various reports and to conduct safety and security drills, to name just a few tasks that are important for the ship's operationality.

However not all the maintenance operations, as you might easily imagine, can be performed at sea. Some tasks, by their innate nature, have to be done in port, while the vessel is stopped and alongside.

Such is the case with anchor works. Altought not very often, anchors do require some level of maintenance, since they are one of the most requested and beaten mechanical systems on board. In cruise vessels, where the looks are (almost) everything, paint and paint brushes are main tools of the daily routine.

The fact that the anchors are naturally made to withstand torture treatments doesn't refrain this cruise ship's crew members to keep theirs in spotless white.

Taking advantage of a short call in Funchal, and while the passengers are ashore, these crew members perform the routine maintenance of their vessel and prepare her for the upcoming voyage.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC FT-3.

Perigáum Automatic - The ultimate cheap automatic watch?

I was thinking about buying an automatic watch for quite some time. With a few analog quartz watches already and some digital ones with various applications, I, curiously, decided to take the plunge and buy a classic one, because, as a fellow seaman once said to me, they are very interesting machines.

However the most famous and reliable automatic mechanisms are from Switzerland and, together with fame and precision?!, they always bring attached a nice price tag. At the other end of the spectrum lie a few oriental watchmakers, but not a single one of them (except the more expensive Citizen and Seiko) with unanimous favourable opinion among users.

Refusing myself to pay more than one or two hundred dollars for a watch, I excluded, for obvious reasons, the Swiss ones... normally starting at ten times that price. So, for now, and while I'm waiting to win the jackpot, I forget the Rolexes, the Omegas, the IWC's and even the (comparatively) modest Tissots. For the moment, I just keep as my only official import from Switzerland the chocolates. So, after (quickly) forgetting any dreams of grandeur I started to do some research on the net for the right product, among a few obscure, but nevertheless (so I thought) trustworthy, European watchmakers.

For starters, I had a general concept of my ideal machine:

1. Not more than 150 Euros.

2. Automatic movement.

3. Gold plated (I know it sounds kitsch, but I have already a few stainless steel watches).

4. Large case (bigger than 40mm in diameter).

5. Water resistant.

6. Visible mechanism on the back and also forward.

7. A few complications (just to look nice!).

8. Leather strap, and... lastly...

9. ... a precise mechanism.

You probably think that the search was easy. And, in a way, it was. I forgot the E-Bay market for starters. I know, I don't really have any formal complains about E-Bay. In fact, I've bought over the years many items with them. Mostly Chinese photographic accessories. And not even once E-Bay failed me. However, I decided to buy my watch from Amazon. But since I'm a European citizen, I immediately forgot Amazon.com and choose instead the UK branch. That way, within the European Union, I had automatically the tax problem solved.

So, I started the search. And eventually that led me to the Perigáum 1972 watchmakers.

About whom I didn't know anything. A quick search on the web led me to their website ( http://www.perigaum.com/). However, although elegant and formal, the website is short on words. Witch is a shame, because with a better information they'll get (I suppose) more clients.

However, between the lines, I have manage to understand that the company is German and it was founded in 1972 (no sure about this, tho... could be the door number). However, there are a few interesting models by this watchmaker on the web and the prices are also interesting, lying around the numbers I was pointing at.

The very positive reviews I was reading were enough for me to take a leap of faith and so I decided myself for a watch of this brand. The fact is that Perigáum has a few models that go well over the one-thousand Euro mark. And at that level a watchmaker must know what he is doing, because the competition is already fierce. There are several "classic" brands with products in that price tag. So, to compete at those prices with well established brands Perigáum has to duel with the same weapons. As I've told you, I didn't wanna so much. My only hope is that they apply the same engineering standards to their lower-level models. The ones I was targeting.

Finally, I've decided myself for the Perigáum 1972 Monaco Automatic P-0505-GS.

The Amazon professionalism was, as usual, perfect. The order was placed at 01:44 of the past 30th of May on their website (the seller store was Watch-Shop) and yesterday (first of June), around 16:00, the UPS courier was calling me with the package. From UK to Madeira: about 62 hours. Not bad.

Now... about that watch.

Well, it's nice. Don't be expecting something that it's not. But for 98.62 £ (package included), I guess I got a little bit more than what I've payed for.

Pictures please:

The watch comes in this nice black case with the User's manual/Warranty certificate. All this protected with a white cardboard box with the Perigáum logo on the cover.

The watch itself is somewhat elegant, without being flashy. The crown is not screw-in. And it serves two purposes: when completely closed, and if you need to start the mechanism, just turn it gently, clockwise, five or six times to acquire a little reserve power. Then you just need to slightly shake the watch to start the movement. If you pull it out one (and only) step, it works as a regular time setting.

There are two additional buttons on the right side. The upper button sets the date (by mere pushes) and the lower one sets the month (by the same procedure). The blue ink you see on the crown is, I think, a production mark. It's easily clean.

The case see-through back, with the mechanism visible by means of a mineral crystal window.

The black leather strap, with the Perigáum logo and the words "genuine leather". This might not mean a thing. However using genuine leather in such an inexpensive watch is, to me, a watchmakers commitment on quality. They could easily have gone for any synthetic product.

Another front view of the watch in review. The open balance spring gives the watch it's elegant touch. The dial is in black colour and, besides the hour, minute and second hands, you'll find on it the day of the week (on the left) and the month (on the right). On top, under the roman numeral XII, you'll find the date window (in Arabic numbers). Just don't expect that these hour and minute hands are easily seen at night time. Contrary to my Citizen Divers that almost hurt my eyes in deep night, the fluorescence of these two hands is kinda week. Anyway, this is mostly a "urban" watch. So the designers probably thought that we are going to use it in well lit places. Somehow I have the feeling that they were correct.

The watch case, in nice golden colour, with a third button, almost hidden. You can use any pointed tool to (carefully) push it. And it serves the purpose of setting the weekday.

At the end of this review, there are a few questions that remain to be answered. For instance: will the golden colour survive the test of time? Or is it going to wear out and show, sooner or latter, the stainless steel underneath, like so many cheap Rolex and Omega imitations from the Far-East? How accurate is this automatic mechanism and where is it from? The most expensive automatic Perigáums clearly state "Swiss made" on their dials, regarding their origin. Is this a Japanese automatic movement? If so, it was not a bad approach, since many of them, judging by the many positive opinions worldwide, are more accurate than the Swiss ones. Dear gents at Perigáum, we, your clients, would love to know the answers to these questions.

Meanwhile, while we wait, I'll try to find the answers to some of them myself.

Castelo Novo - A short visit to the medieval Portugal

I can't remember how many times I've already passed nearby Castelo Novo, while cruising the A-23, the highway of Beira Interior, on my way to the Central Massif. Surely more than thirty. And in all those times I've just passed by. Glancing the eyes quickly to the urban landscape surrounded by the natural amphitheatre of the Gardunha mountain, to avoid deadly driving mistakes. And every time the eight-hundred year old granitic village glazed back to me. In a reproachable contempt. As if she was asking if I was such an important person to refuse to stop for a visit, since her presence was so obvious. Or maybe she didn't care at all. And all these conjectures were just a product of my imagination.

Either way, Castelo Novo is far to present in the landscape to be for ever ignored. So one day, about one year ago, on my way back from Serra da Estrela, I stopped by.

Best thing I've ever done in that day, since the village, although small, is wonderful.

A telluric force emerges from the old town, while we walk along the old cobbled paths. It's like she was carved on the mountain instead of built, since her chameleonic granitic shape and colour is so similar to the adjacent mountain.

I was feeling very humble. Here I was in a village officially with 800 years old (her first Foral Chart is supposed to be from 1202), but whose History goes all the way from the Chalcolithic Era to the Brass and Iron Eras until the (somehow) more recent Roman occupation. Her first years of "official" existence are strongly connected to the Knights Templar, religious order to whom she was given by the Portuguese King.

And, according to the historians, the name Castelo Novo ("New Castle") was probably given to her due to the fact that before her formal existence there was... an old castle ("Castelo Velho") in the same place or close by.

The village of about 400 inhabitants doesn't attract a lot of visitants. Witch is good, since you can walk around in a peaceful atmosphere, only interrupted by the occasional dog barking or the (rare) car passing by. Interesting spots are many, since all the village is a living museum. However, the main square with the town hall and the "Pelourinho" (pillory) are mandatory visits as it is the castle, witch can be reached by a short climb from the town centre. From there, you'll have a magnificent vista over the Cova da Beira and beyond that, further to the East, you can see, one hundred kilometres away, the lands of Spain.

Since I have arrived in the peak of the afternoon sun, the light was not the better for photo purposes. However, I have the feeling that in a next opportunity arriving to Castelo Novo before sunrise will hopefully bless the ancient granitic walls with a gentle light from the East at dawn.

Be that as it may, don't ever think about not stopping by, while on route in the A-23, either the light is good or not, and regardless if it is dawn, dusk or simply plain and flat noon time. If the light is not good, just seat down in a "esplanada". Drink a coffee, a tea or a water. Relax and feel the millenary History around you. You will enjoy Castelo Novo. In my case, it was better late than never.

A glimpse of the millenary village of Castelo Novo, with the castle's "Torre de Menagem" (Keep) right behind the granit houses and the clock tower on the picture's right background.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC FT-3.

The clock tower and the castle walls in a closer look.
Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC FT-3.

The town "Pelourinho" (Pillory), where in ancient times justice was applied by means of a... good spanking. Something that the vast majority of our worldwide politicians in the present days would deserve. To say the least.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC FT-3.

The castle walls facing the granitic mass of the Gardunha mountain.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC FT-3.

To the far East, on the horizon, the Kingdom of Spain. On the foreground, the clock tower and the remains of the castle walls.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC FT-3.

From Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruívo and back - Hiking on the high peaks

A couple of days ago I was standing in front of the Portuguese Air Force Radar Station nº4, located in Pico do Areeiro, questioning myself whether or not I should start, by the third time, the mountain track that would lead me to the island highest peak.

Truth be said, the hike between these two peaks is the closest thing to a masochistic ritual that we can find in the Madeira mountains. So why is it so popular among hikers of all nationalities? Well, basically... the fabulous landscape. Let's see, at first it doesn't seem so intimidating. You start in Pico do Areeiro, at 1818 mts, and about seven kilometres after you end up in Pico Ruívo, at 1862 mts. A calm and relaxed five-mile walk to climb 44 metres in high, right? Wrong! The problem is in-between. Starting close to the radar dome, the path will lead you first, in a gentle descent, to the Ninho da Manta belvedere. There, you can relax a bit, watching the surrounding landscape and trying to spot the famous "Freira da Madeira" (Pterodroma madeira), an endemic bird at the verge of extinction. Following the route, you are now, after a slight ascent, walking over a rocky ridge no wider than the trail itself and with a vertiginous abyss of hundreds of meters on either side. Ever imagined walking over a knife blade? Here is reality overtaking fiction.

At the end of the basalt ridge you start the steep descent to Pico do Gato. And when I mean steep, I really mean steep. No problem with the route, tho. The path is well marked and well kept and on the most exposed parts you have railings on either side. The problem is the steepness. Those stairs seem to never end. Step after step after step. And when you finally reach level ground, some three hundred meters below, at the entrance of the Pico do Gato tunnel, you gaze one last time back, to what you've just done, and say to yourself: "Good God, I'll have to climb this on my way back".

After the Pico do Gato tunnel and a few more stairs, you'll be facing a crossing. Both directions will lead to Pico Ruívo. If you choose the left path, you will reach Pico Ruívo after 3.4 kms and a few tunnels on the way (always bring a flash light with you. In Madeira mountains it's pretty much convenient!), on a mostly leveled path. However, if you choose the right one you'll end up at Pico Ruívo, all right. After almost five kilometres climbing to the Torres ridge and then coming down and once again coming up to your final destination, at 1862 meters. In short: if you are a religious person and you feel that you are square with God, by all means choose the left path. But if you are a sinner, you should punish your body and your soul a little bit more. So, please, choose the right path and add 300 metres of steep ascent followed by the same amount of descent to your penitence.

Since I was feeling pretty much in peace with God and Humanity, I've decided for the left. This path is not as aerial as the one by the Torres ridge. In fact, you are always walking thru a narrow and canyon-like landscape. However, due to the amount of moisture in the air, the flora is quite colourful and although in small quantities (you are in the high mountains) the flowers are everywhere. When you pass the last tunnel you are standing on the path that's coming from the Torres ridge. So you proceed to your left and to the final part of your hike. From here, should be around two more kilometres to the Pico Ruívo, in a gentle ascent gradient, first to the Pico Ruívo mountain hut and then to the peak itself. On the way back, you can choose the tunnels route or you can go straight ahead to the Torres, following the gentle trail that leads you to the Torres ridge. Just don't forget that, as soon as you have peaked it, you'll face the steep descent down to Pico do Gato that you avoided before coming by the tunnels. If you are not on your best shape, your knees will suffer on the steep stairs. I wasn't. So I suffered like hell in that passage. A hike that usually takes about two and a half hours did cost me almost five. Honestly, I was seriously thinking about spending the night in the mountain, if I couldn't manage to reach Pico do Areeiro by daytime. With my legs like gelatin and already after the sunset, I finally managed to drag myself to the car parking lot close to the radar station. That's how fit I was. And that was a serious lesson learnt about despising regular physical training. However, for a normal hiker, there is absolutely no reason stopping you to accomplish the route Pico do Areeiro-Pico Ruívo-Pico do Areeiro in five hours.

The most beautiful mountain walk in Madeira starts here, close to the Radar Station Nº 4, of the Portuguese Air Force. For you tech fanatics, this is supposed to be a long-range tri-dimensional SA Lanza 3D radar, built by INDRA Sistemas SA, from Spain. This system is supposed to increase the vigilance of both the civil and military air space of Madeira and adjacent waters up to a distance of 250 nautical miles.

Pico do Areeiro, as seen from the Torres.

The (in)famous Torres crossing, right after the Pico do Gato tunnel. Right here you decide. If you follow the left path, you'll find several tunnels ahead on a mostly horizontal trail. If you choose the right one... soon afterwards you'll be climbing up to the Torres ridge by a very steep trail and you will be adding an additional 300 meters of ascent and as much in descent to your ride. Your choice.

The left path will lead you to a crossing of the Torres ("Towers") with a few subterranean moments.

Either way the trail is always well marked...

...well kept and mostly well protected, as you can see by the pictures above, taken close to the Torres and when were remaining about 30 minutes to reach Madeira's highest peak.

It's Spring time, so flowers are constant...

...and constant...

...along the way.

The mountain trail passing near the Torres.

After two and a half hours on the trail, you finally see the Pico Ruívo mountain hut appearing over the trees.

A landscape reflection in a Pico Ruívo hut window, late in the afternoon.

The view from the Pico Ruívo is never the same. It varies with the seasons and even during the same day, due to the cloud cover of the sky. At the distance, near the sea, you can see the village of Santana. In the right extreme of the picture there's the Achada do Teixeira parking place.

Pico Ruívo, as seen from the Torres ridge, on my way back.

The quickest way to reach Pico Ruívo is by an easy path departing from Achada do Teixeira (at a height of 1592 meters). This trail, with about three kilometres of extension, will lead you to the Madeira's highest peak in a gentle crossing of the mountain ridge that you can see on the horizon. It's safe, it's fast... but not nearly as much fun as the bigger one.

Costa Mediterranea in Funchal

The massive presence of the M/V Costa Mediterranea as seen from the Funchal Pilot Station, approaching the Pontinha breakwater, early morning, on the berthing manoeuvre of the past 13 of May.

Picture taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-FT3.

Pilot Card:

Ships name: M/V Costa Mediterranea
IMO number: 9237345
Type: Cruise ship
LOA: 292.50 mts
Beam: 32.20 mts
Summer displacement: 44920 t
Max draft on manoeuvre: 7.90 mts
Propulsion: Diesel-electric, two stern azipods, 35.2 MW total propulsion power
Pitch: N/A
Rudder: N/A
Bow thruster: 3 (total power: 5730 KW)
Stern Thruster: N/A