Summer weather

During my seafaring career, we used to pray for days like this. At sea the weather simply cannot be better than this. The sea surface with the texture of olive oil and the "good weather cumuli" reflecting on the calm surface below. Sea of ladies, we used to call it. Because if it was always like that even (more, I add) women would be seafarers.

Sea of ladies indeed.

Picture taken on the mountains of Madeira, facing the North coast and the town of Santana, with Nikon D300 and Sigma EX 18-70mm f/2.8. Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom and Perfectly Clear Lightroom plug-in.

Echoes of the past

When we visited it, in 1992, nearly a quarter of a century ago, the Natural Park of Alvão was one of the most remote places in the continental Portugal. At the time, it was short on the famous connecting highways that are today a cause for political controversies.

In those days, however, we'd gladly enjoy their convenience if one existed that could reduce the long voyage from Lisboa to the massif, deep inside the Trás-Os-Montes province, on the NE Portugal. After a ten hour voyage that looked to us, still youngsters in the mountaineering business, like an expedition in itself, we finally arrived, late in the evening, to the high plateau of Serra de Alvão and to a remote small village called Lamas de Ôlo, where we improvised a bivouac in an old and abandoned watermill.

A perfect example of a Portuguese mountain village, this small place, now home of barely one hundred souls, surprised us by the beauty of its archaic architecture, with most houses built with granite and schist.

On the village's highest place stood tall, as a lonely sentinel, the community bell. A remainder of a not-so distant past, when the village had to depend on itself against the many menaces their inhabitants could face. And when words as solidarity, teamwork and union were used on a daily basis.

I have never returned to Alvão.

Old picture taken with a Pentax SF-1 film camera, with the, at the time, standard 50mm f/1.7 Pentax KAF lens and with a Agfapan B/W 100 ASA film. Scanning in Nikon Coolscan V ED and processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom.

The Paul da Serra plateau

A curious flat formation, The Paul da Serra high plateau, located on the West part of Madeira, adds a twist of monotony in an island almost entirely dominated by an aggressive geological morphology.

With an area of roughly 25 square kilometres and an average high above sea level of nearly 1500 mts, the high plateau of Paul da Serra is also one of the most important drainage basins in Madeira. In fact, this plateau, dryer during the Summer months, is a place of almost eternal fogs during the Winter season. Its ability to collect water from the atmosphere is obvious during those wet months, during whose the Paul da Serra plateau usually houses several lagoons, which normally dry out as the wet season changes towards the Summer months.

In fact, this characteristic is so obvious that its name was well given: "Paul" in Portuguese means pond.

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the pictures:

The Paul da Serra plateau, a dry, high, plane during the Summer months, becomes, due to the maritime climate, a moisture magnet during the Winter season. Its natural shape, associated to the climatic factor, makes it one of the most important water-collecting basins in the whole island. In fact the numerous ponds appearing during the Winter months can even be, as once was demonstrated, suitable for wind-surf. The obvious windy nature of the place makes it one of the best places in Madeira for wind farms, as we can see by the numerous wind turbines that nowadays decorate this vast altitude plain.

 

All the pictures taken with Nikon F100 and Nikkor AF 28-105mm kit lens and Manfrotto tripod. Fujichrome Velvia ASA 50 scanned in Nikon Coolscan V ED and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom.

S. Jorge old pier

Once the gateway to the Northern coast of the island, the old pier of S. Jorge remains today a testimony of hardship. From a time when, in absence of good roads, connecting the main locations of the island, the transportation of passengers and goods, from South to North, was assured by open hull wooden cargo boats called "carreireiros".

From those times a few piers still survive all over the island. Mainly used by tourists, looking for a photo opportunity, and by local fishermen, looking for the next catch.

Among them, S. Jorge's, located a short stroll away from Ribeira de S. Jorge's mouth, is probably the one with the most vertiginous access. Definitely not for the faint-hearted.

 

Pictures taken with Nikon D610 and Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 AI lens. Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1

Ribeira de S. Jorge mouth

The Ribeira de S. Jorge mouth, with its stream flowing directly to the sea, today at evening time, on the North coast of Madeira.

Picture taken with Nikon D300 and Sigma EX 10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC HSM. Cokin Neutral Density Degradé, ref. 122, P system. Manfrotto tripod and geared head. Post-processing in Nikon View NX2 an Adobe Lightroom, ver. 4.1

Levada dos Cedros - P.R. 14

The Levada dos Cedros has one of the most handsome sources in all the Madeira's levadas. However, as strange as it may seem, this path is not as visited as its nearest neighbours, in Rabaçal valley. Hidden deep in Fanal, this hike is, nevertheless, a pleasurable one, taking you deep into the Laurissilva forest.

The departure point to Levada dos Cedros source, nearby the ER 209 (Regional Road).

 

Description:

Departure position:

Lat:   32º49'33"N

Long: 017º09'29"W

Altitude: 870 mts

Source (arrival) position:

Lat:    32º47'57"N

Long: 017º08?39"W

Altitude: 910 mts

 

Distance: 5.4 kms

Time:       aprox. 1h30m

The round hike (from departure to departure) will take you about three hours on the trail and nearly eleven kilometres of walking.
 

Wooden bridge in Levada dos Cedros...

The always luxurious vegetation is a constant presence, as we proceed deeper into the Laurissilva, heading to the source of the levada.

The remote and luxuriant source of Levada dos Cedros, deep inside the primeval forest of Fanal. A well-kept Garden of Eden, rightfully deserving a visit and the 5.5 kms long approach march.
Pictures made with Nikon D40X with Nikkor 18-55mm kit lens and Nikon Coolpix P7100. Tripod Sirui T005 for the last picture.
Post-processing of the converted Nikon NEF Raw to TIFF files in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Montado do Pereiro

 

Both pictures taken with Nikon D300 and Sigma DC 18-50mm f/2.8 EX Macro HSM. Hoya HMC Super 77mm Circular Polarizer. Manfrotto tripod and ball head.

For more informations, please check the DRFCN site.

Madeira - First Snowfall of 2014

 

A few pictures of the first snowfall of the present year of 2014 in the mountains of our Madeira island. The pictures were made yesterday (the 16th), in a short walk during the afternoon, when the roads to the central massif were opened by the Forestal Police and the Civil Protection, thus enabling us to hike from the Achada do Teixeira plateau to the Pico Ruívo mountain hut.

The conditions for photography were not the best, because the afternoon on the mountain was grey, windy and wet.

So we skipped the visit to the peak itself, since it served no purpose whatsoever. We remained in the mountain hut area, trying to make the best of the winter conditions laying in front of us.

Through all the hike the air temperature varied between 0ºC and +2ºC and the humidity remained near 100%.

Pictures made at a altitude of 1775 mts, near the mountain hut, with a Nikon D40X and cheap Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S GII ED DX kit lens. Post-processing in Nikon View NX2 and Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Ilhéu Mole on a Winter night

The Ilhéu Mole is a small islet located on the NW coast of Madeira island, near the village of Porto Moniz.

A small lighthouse was erected on its top plateau, powered by solar panels.

Technical details:
Name: Ilhéu Mole lighthouse
Location: North-western coast of Madeira island
Position: 32º 52'N 017º 09''W
Height: 3mts
Focal height: 65mts above sea level
Range: W - 10nm R - 8nm
Characteristic: Fl WR 5s

Picture taken on a stormy evening, a few days ago, with Nikon D610 and Nikkor AF-D 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5. Sirui T 005 travel tripod and ball-head. Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1

Rural tourism

As the 35th most visited country in the world in 2012 (numbers from the UNWTO), Portugal has, since several decades ago, a mature tourism sector.

The Portuguese hospitality is legendary, and it's rare to find a foreign citizen issuing negative comments on account of a bad touristic experience in our country.

The reasons for this are quite simple: we are a small country and thus (at least for now) quite safe. There are no internal fractures that threatens the nation's social stability, since we, besides being a state, are also a nation (the oldest nation state in Europe, in fact; independent since 1139 and with its sovereignty recognized by the Pope Alexander III, on the year 1179).

On the other hand, we are naturally curious for other cultures. Contrary to the present general philosophy of the so-called (wanna-be)hegemonic states worldwide, we do enjoy to learn. And what a better way to do that than talking to a foreigner. Learning is what we've been doing since the Discoveries.

You don't believe it? Check our globally respected cuisine and you'll know what I mean: you'll find pieces of Africa, the Americas and Asia on it.

So, it's no surprise that, with this modest, interested, down-to-earth and cosmopolitan way of living, our country became a destination for more than 13 million tourists on the past year. You have to recognize that, in a nation of nearly ten million, these are not bad numbers.

Such a strong worldwide demand for Portugal is answered by the country's hospitality industry, which is increasingly complex, year after year.

Nearly forty years ago, after the Carnation Revolution, the country was poor and tourism accommodations were restricted to hotels in the main cities and pensions and hostels in the smaller towns.

Well, a lot has changed since then. Like everywhere in the world, we now have resorts, lodges, motels, you name it.

Increasing in popularity (taking, for that, advantage of the perfect conditions offered by the country for nature tourism) is the rural tourism.

It uses the concept of "casas de campo" (country houses) as accommodation units and it aims at a growing niche in the market: that one of people tired of city noise, pollution and confusion and looking for a more relaxed vacation experience, preferably amidst nature or inserted in a true-to-values community lifestyle.

Portugal has now thousands of these places, many recovered from ancient secular constructions and given a new life from new owners. The autonomous regions of Madeira and Açores are no exception to the national whole.

A couple of days ago, interested in the concept, I accepted a kind invitation from a friend and headed to the North of the island to enjoy a relaxed day, away from the South coast more frivolous existence. The chosen place was the "Moinho do Comandante", or Captain's Mill. Located in the small place of Fajã do Cedro Gordo (São Roque do Faial), this was, previously, an old water mill, used for flour production.

An old building (dated from 1829), the water mill constructed near the Ribeira da Ametade stream changed hands several times in its life until being bought (already in ruins) by the former TAP airline Captain Carlos Melo Vidal in more recent years.

From that time on, an intense reconstruction and expansion work took place, leading to the inauguration, in 1999.

Nowadays, the "Moinho do Comandante", fully integrated in the surrounding landscape, is a fine example of what the "sustainable development" concept means, when particularly related to the tourism industry.

I'm glad to live in a country were thousands of these small good examples keep flourishing.

The "Moinho do Comandante" as seen from the bridge over the Ribeira da Ametade stream...

...and picturing the high peaks above Fajã da Nogueira valley, in the distant horizon.

Covered in green leafs during Spring time, the mill walls exhibit now a more bucolic, autumnal and naked look, nevertheless equally interesting.

The gate bell.

All pictures taken with Nikon D300 and Sigma 70-200mm 1:2.8D APO EX HSM, 18-50mm 1:2.8 EX Macro HSM DC and 10-20mm 1:4-5.6 EX DC HSM lenses. 77mm Hoya HMC Super circular polarizer and Cokin graduated neutral density filters.

Manfrotto 055 NAT3 tripod and 410 Junior Geared Head.

Post-processing of all images in Nikon View NX2 and Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1

Ribeira da Janela mouth and hydroelectric power plant at dusk

Built in 1965, the hydroelectric power plant of Ribeira da Janela, located in the mouth of the stream bearing the same name, is one of the two (the other being the Central da Calheta de Inverno) that is located at sea level.

Contrary to its higher-altitude sisters, which water is channelled in the famous levadas, after energy production, to irrigate the agriculture fields located in the lower altitudes, the Ribeira da Janela plant is a pure energy-generating unit, losing its water to the ocean nearby, after turbination.

A totally automatic installation, the Ribeira da Janela power plant is remotely operated.

The plant, normally operating just one generator in daylight, activates the second turbine-alternator group at evening time, normally at sunset, when the electrical energy consumption increases.

The Ribeira da Janela power plant is responsible for an yearly average production of 8 GWh.

Picture taken with Nikon D300 and Sigma DC 18-50mm 1:2.8 EX Macro HSM. Manfrotto 055NAT3 tripod and Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Head.

Conversion of the NEF 14 bits to TIFF 16 bits file in Nikon free View NX2 software. Post-processing of the resulting TIFF file and posterior conversion to JPEG for web publishing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1

Ribeira da Janela islets

Located at the mouth of Ribeira da Janela stream, on the Northern coast of Madeira island, near the touristic village of Porto Moniz, these islets represent one of the most dramatic landscapes on the North coast of the island.

Generally beaten by strong winds and rough seas, the Ribeira da Janela mouth is, nevertheless, a magical place, although a bit intimidating.

One of the most photographed spots on the island, here you rarely find two days alike.

Picture taken during the past afternoon, with Nikon D300 and Sigma DC 18-50mm f/2.8 EX Macro HSM. Hoya Pro 1 Digital 72mm MC UV10 filter. Manfrotto Junior geared head and 535 MPro carbon fiber tripod.

Post-processing of converted RAW to TIFF file in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1

Las Tres Sorores

The Monte Perdido ("lost mountain") massif is, unquestionably, the most dramatic mountain landscape in all the Iberian Peninsula.

If you are stubborn enough to hike the ten kilometres from the parking lot, in Pradera de Ordesa, up to the Circo ("cirque") de Soaso, walking along the Rio ("river") Arazas, you'll be blessed with one of the most magnificent European mountain scenarios.

A National Park since 1918, the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido attracts every year thousands of mountaineers, willing to climb its vertiginous rock walls, its three thousand meter peaks or just hiking along the many endless trails along and around the valley.

The Circo de Soaso, pictured here, is the last stop for many daily hikers that just don't have the time to climb the via ferrata at the end of the valley that would lead them to the Góriz plateau and to the Delgado Úbeda mountain hut (the starting point for the Monte Perdido ascension).

Above it, from left to right in the picture, are visible the Cilindro (3325mts), the Monte Perdido (3355mts) and the Añisclo (3254mts). These three are named "Las Tres Sorores" or "the three sisters".

On the right corner of the picture, hiding behind the Añisclo, there's still place for one last three-thousander: the Punta de las Olas (3022mts).

Picture taken, from the "Senda de los Cazadores" with Nikon FM3A and Nikkor 28-108 AF-D lens, in Ektachrome 100ASA film. Post-processing of the scanned TIFF file in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Achada do Teixeira

The Madeira's central ridge, as seen from Achada do Teixeira plateau. The starting point of many hikes to the island's highest point, at evening light, this past afternoon.

Picture taken with Panasonic DMC-GH2 and 14-42mm kit Panasonic lens. Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1 and Silkypix software, version 3.1

Caniçal.

The bucolic fishing village of Caniçal, in a picture taken today, at dusk, from the Caniçal port South breakwater.

A place with a strong religious tradition (like all the seafaring towns in Portugal), Caniçal is still living during these days its yearly celebration that started in the past Saturday with the maritime procession honouring Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Our Lady Of Pity).

A place cherished by Madeira citizens and foreigners alike, Caniçal is a famous weekend destination in Madeira, mostly due to its restaurants and their seafood specialties.

Picture taken with Nikon D300 and cheap AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR DX (uuuff!) kit lens equipped with a Hoya 52mm Skylight (1B) protective filter.

Post-processing of the converted NEF to TIFF file in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Levada do Norte

The Levada do Norte is not for the faint-hearted. One of the longest in Madeira, it starts in the hydroelectric power plant of Serra de Água and snakes along the middle of the thousand-meter vertical rock wall rising above the left margin of the Ribeira Brava stream, crossing several tunnels and vertiginous precipices, before reaching Boa Morte and entering in a more relaxed and man-made landscape. Five or six years ago, I was feeling courageous enough to attempt it. And so I did. But it was a scary experience (although with lovely vistas). And I'm not a person, normally, scared with heights. But the section of this levada passing right above the village of Serra de Água is enough to make (even for the bravest of "levadeiros") us think twice. It's the verticality, it's the exposure, it's the height above the far, far... away ground. If it's difficult for us, nowadays, to walk through, one can only imagine how hard it was to build, sixty years ago. Those were brave people. No doubt about that.

Well, I did it once. And, for the time being, once was enough.

However, I was missing it. And so, a few weeks ago, I decided to repeat part of it. Just a small section. Between Boa-Morte and the small village of Espigão.

With a length of 8 kilometres (sixteen in total, if you plan to return back by the same way), it's a good introduction to this levada and to the fabulous landscapes we can see along it. And you can always drink a beer or a coffee, at the beginning and at the end of the walk in the nearby friendly bar "O Pinheiro".

A sign plate, near Boa Morte, orients you to the Levada do Norte. Eastwards, it runs thru a humanized landscape of agriculture fields and small villages to Quinta Grande and beyond. On the other direction, Westwards, if you like strong emotions, the Levada do Norte will take you to its birth place, near the Serra de Água hydroelectric power plant, and after a walk along one of Madeira's most dramatic geological formations: the Ribeira Brava valley.

 

From Campanário and Câmara de Lobos to Boa Morte, the Levada do Norte mostly traverses a bucolic landscape of agriculture fields and small human settlements. A strong contrast with the more isolated, exposed and dangerous section laying upstream.

The small village of Eira do Mourão, one of the most remote in Madeira and once only acessible by a two hour long staircase walk, starting in the Ribeira Brava basin, stands isolated on top of a rocky ridge, high on the left margin of Ribeira Brava valley. Picture made from the nearby-passing Levada do Norte.

Pictures taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 and cheap 14-42mm plastic kit lens. Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Starting the Levada do Norte from its source (near the Serra de Água hydro power plant) and our walk will be mostly under the canopy of a luxuriant forest. At least for the first miles. Until the village of Espigão there are also several tunnels to be crossed, the biggest of them all measuring a good 3 kilometres. Some of them are somewhat flooded. So be prepared for wet feet. And don't forget the torch light.

The most dramatic section of this very exposed levada is this one, right above the village of Serra de Água. In Winter time it's quite often impassable, due to the waterfalls that fall right on top of the levada channel. It's simply to dangerous.

In this picture made from the valley floor, near the Serra de Água village, you can have an idea of the exposure of this particular section. And how difficult it was, certainly, to be built.

A picture of this particular section, taken right from the track, a few years ago, during Spring time. You can still see the water falling right at the exit of the tunnel. The picture doesn't give justice to the exposure and verticality of the place.
The last four pictures were taken with a Nikon FM3A and a 28-105 Nikkor zoom lens. Fujichrome Velvia scanned in Nikon Coolscan V ED and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.



Vila Baleira at dusk

The Vila Baleira, the main city and capital town of Porto Santo island, as seen from the Nossa Senhora da Graça chapel. This temple is considered one of the most important in the whole island, with its origins backing to 1533. From its front yard, high in the hill, we have a privileged view over the whole Porto Santo SW coast and beach.
Picture taken with Nikon Coolpix P7100 and Sirui T-005 tripod and ball head. Post-processing of a converted NRW to TIFF file in Nikon View NX and Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Marina da Calheta

Contrary to Marina do Lugar de Baixo, a massive political (and engineering) flop never assumed by the Regional Government, the nearby Marina da Calheta project navigates, so far, in calm(er) waters. Although occasionally castigated by the same rough Southerly conditions, Calheta's structure seems to be on a different league and so were also (apparently) the previous hydrographic studies and surveys that led to its construction.

Evening twilight in Marina da Calheta.

Picture taken with Nikon D40X and Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1. Manfrotto tripod and ball-head.

Penha d' Águia

The SW face of the Penha d'Águia monolith and the village of Moinhos, on the North coast of Madeira, as seen from a viewpoint in São Roque do Faial.

Picture taken with Panasonic DMC-GH2 and SLR Magic 12mm T1.6 lens. Post-processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.

Coexistence of men and mountains

I would be a very unhappy person if Madeira was a flat island. Thankfully, in such a small geographic area, Madeira is shaped by an aggressive orography, probably the highest responsible for its many natural attributes.

However, making a living in such a violent landscape is far from easy to its inhabitants. The land is prone to mudslides in Winter time and traveling on certain roads during the rainy season is, by itself, an adventure.

But when you travel by these secondary roads on a quiet and nearly-Spring day, with a new surprise every time you turn or surpass a ridge, you cannot stop to be amazed of how adaptable the human spirit can be.

Every evening time, when I remember the postcard-like landscapes that I've seen during the day, I'm always glad to be presently living in such a beautiful place.

Civil construction in Madeira is, in itself, an adventure. A tale of conquest. Of men vanquishing (adapting to?) the natural reality surrounding them. Here, a square meter of ground is important. And it has to be used properly. Either to build a public road or a family house. But, in the end, this philosophy also adds to Madeira's particular atmosphere. And enchantment. Like these houses, near Faial, with a privileged view over the Central Massif.

Picture taken with Nikon Coolpix P7100 and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, ver. 4.1.